Monday, September 30, 2019

Yellowstone 2019

We spent in Yellowstone 10 days, more or less... rather less than more, because it took us most of the first day to get there, and all of the last day to get back. So I will try to structure my trip report along these lines, although it wasn't really that straightforward: some of the days were packed to the brim with sightseeing and adventures, others were more relaxed... some of the places we visited multiple times on different days... still, here we go:



This is Old Faithful, of course. The full photo album is here. (Expand the Info tab, on the right, to see photo captions.)

Enjoy!

Sunday, September 29, 2019

Yellowstone, Day 1: First impressions

After getting up at an ungodly hour and changing planes in Dallas, we arrived in Bozeman, picked up the rental car, and loaded up with groceries at a local supermarket. (Also got a cheap cooler.) Now eating lunch (and drinking beer) at Old Chicago.


Checked into our first hotel, Yellowstone Riverside Cottages in Gardiner. It has a full kitchen and a balcony...


... with river views, and once you cross the bridge at the far end of this photo, you are practically in Yellowstone.


Here is the famous Roosevelt Arch, marking the North entrance to Yellowstone National Park.


Our first destination - Boiling River. On the day of our arrival, September 12, it is open for swimming until 8 pm (will switch to Fall hours, until 6 pm, on 9/15), which is really fortunate because it is just after 6 now, as we are starting out.


The swimming area is about half a mile upstream from the parking lot. On the right, you can see the rising steam from thermal springs that flow into the river at this point (which is where the name "Boiling River" comes from).


There are no changing rooms, just a couple of benches and a standard sign, warning about wildlife ("wildlife is dangerous, keep 100 yards away from bears and wolves, 25 yards away from other animals, yadda-yadda-yadda") - later we saw signs like this all over the park...



... we come prepared, with swimsuits already on under our clothes, so now I am cautiously entering the river. Cautiously, because the boulders underfoot are slippery, the current is strong, and I have to make my way downstream, where boiling water from the thermal springs is coming in (now on the left) and mixing with the very cold waters of the river. I feel like Goldilocks - a little to the left and you are in danger of getting scalded, a little to the right - the water is very cold and you can get toppled by the current... have to keep in-between and find a "just right" place in one of the lagoons (like all those other people down there)...


... and as I am slowly making my way down, here is the first encounter with "wildlife"... yikes!!! (since it is Alex - who just entered the water with our TG-4 camera - taking the picture, the snake is actually swimming towards me...) It is hard to tell from the photo how big it is, so in case you wonder, it is probably 5 or 6 feet long.


I have no clue whether this snake is poisonous or what... The snake, meanwhile, brushed past my legs and swam somewhere to the side - you can see, I am cautiously optimistic...


... nope, it's back! It tried swimming upstream, gave up, moved to one side and the other, and ended up on the stones just behind my back in the previous photo.


Later I found out that this is a Bullsnake - a non-poisonous snake that looks remarkably like a Rattlesnake (same markings, same size) - except the rattlesnake has the "rattle" on the tip of its tail, while the bullsnake's tail is pointed (as seen perfectly well in the next photo). All I can say, it's a good thing that at the time of our encounter I had no clue as to what a rattlesnake is supposed to look like either...


Finally, the snake moved away for good and we found ourselves a nice lagoon...


... and started enjoying the thermal waters.


It was really great fun!


On the way back, we saw cars stopping and people pointing up... and sure enough, there were some Bighorn Sheep...


... except we didn't see a ram with huge curly horns, they were all female or youngsters, with tiny little horns...


... but very cute. This was the only time we saw the Bighorn Sheep in Yellowstone, they are not as prevalent as bison or elk.


And speaking of elk, just as we were about to cross the bridge in Gardiner, three elks came out of somewhere behind this wall, crossed the road towards the restaurant on the left - but probably didn't like the menu or ambiance, because they immediately turned around and crossed back, which is when I took this picture.


And this is the sunset from our balcony.


> Day 2

Saturday, September 28, 2019

Yellowstone, Day 2: Mountains, rivers, waterfalls

Morning of the second day, we are still staying in Gardiner, at the Northern entrance. Alex decided to start the day with a hike up Mount Washburn (6.4 miles round trip). This is just a beautiful view near the beginning of the trail...


... and this is the point, about half-a-mile from the start, when I realized that at this altitude I cannot possibly walk uphill... not enough oxygen... Alex wasn't very happy, but we turned back. Later that day, I had to pass on several other opportunities that required walking uphill, which made Alex progressively more unhappy/annoyed.


Here is a case in point. At the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (Yellowstone has its own Grand Canyon, totally unrelated to the real one), there is a short trail to the Brink of Lower Falls that goes steeply down several hundred feet - which means a climb of several hundred feet on the way back - and so I didn't risk taking it, and Alex went alone. This is one of his photos from the platform at the brink of the falls...


... and here is another one.


This photo, also of the Lower Falls, is taken from an observation point further along the North Rim, where we are back together.


A close-up of the river below...


And this is a view of the Upper Falls from the South Rim. (There used to be a trail to the Upper Falls from the North Rim too, but it got washed away and was closed at the time of our visit. So was Uncle Tom's Trail to the base of the Lower Falls from the South Rim, 328 metal steps down - and then up - that I totally planned to do, even if very slowly.)


Since uncle Tom's Trail was closed, we decided to hike to the Artist Point - about a mile one-way along the rim. This is the view of the Lower Falls from this trail.


And here a very nice couple from North Carolina took our picture with the view of Lower Falls. Unlikely as it might seem, a few days later we met this couple again, on the trail to the Fairy Falls and Imperial Geyser, and compared notes on geyser eruptions and such.


A close-up of the Lower Falls - you can clearly see the observation platform on the other side (where Alex went without me).


Another view from the trail to the Artist Point. The colors of the rocks are amazing!


And this is the view from the Artist Point...


... I guess it does look like a painting...


I am taking a selfie because Alex left to get the car - even the trail along the rim, on the way there, proved too much for me, so I took some extra pictures at Artist Point and waited in the parking lot for Alex to pick me up in the car.

A bit later, here I am taking a photo of this beautiful view...


... while Alex is taking a photo of me taking that photo.


Tower Falls, with interesting rock formations around it...


... another view of the Tower Falls...


... just a beautiful view of the river...


... an interesting rock face...


... and another beautiful view.


Our first bison. We are not really that close to it, I am using the zoom - but see the orange cone, quite close to the bison? Alex asked me whether it was messing my shot and I said it was OK, I'll crop it out later... so what did my husband do?


See, now there is no cone because...


... my crazy husband went and picked it up, and moved it to the side. Fortunately, the bison was busy eating.


This is a petrified tree. They keep it fenced in for some reason.


Another bison.


Elks on the lawn near some houses in Mammoth Springs.


More elks - a mom and baby - down near the river...


... here they are again...


... and this is the father... Gorgeous, isn't he?


From another point a bit down the river, here is his whole family coming up...


... and he is following them and bugling.



September is the month when elks are organizing their harems. Later in our trip, another harem near the road to the Western entrance was causing horrible traffic jams every evening (everyone was slowing down and taking pictures), so much so that they posted a ranger there - to wave at cars and urge them to move along.

> Day 3