Friday, October 31, 2025

Japan 2025

Putting something together quickly about our trip to Japan in October 2025:




Thursday, October 30, 2025

Japan, day 1: Getting there

It took us about 20 hours to get there (14-hour flight). 

Our apartment in Akasaka was very small but had a balcony. 





First order of business: getting groceries and having some ramen at the Akasaka Biz Tower, about 15-min walk from the apartment. 


After that, the only thing we could do was fall asleep.

> Day 2



Wednesday, October 29, 2025

Japan, day 2: Tokyo

Our first full day in Japan we devoted to an introductory tour of Tokyo. Our guide, Mark, was wonderful! He told us a lot about the history of the country and Tokyo/Edo. We visited the Senso-ji Buddhist Temple and Asakusa Shinto Shrine, then moved to Ninonbashi - an old commercial area, had a wonderful sushi lunch at Manten Sushi, and finished at the Menji Jingu Shrine. 

Here we are approaching the Senso-ji temple, Tokyo's oldest, completed in year 645.



Once you pass through the first gate, the street leading towards the temple complex is full of people and various shops.


This shop is selling financial success cats. Maybe this is not their official name, but from the explanations of our guide, seems like every shop or business has one of those: the cat is waving with one paw, attracting customers, and with the other paw it attracts money. 


Another interesting tidbit: the Senso-ji temple story starts with two fishermen, who pulled a gold Buddha statue out of the sea. They then went to a wise man, who told them to establish a temple. This painting shows the two fishermen, and various temple celebrations feature "two fishermen and a wise man" as a recurring theme. 


This is a much more elaborate gate leading inside the temple complex.


Buddha's slippers hanging on the other side of that gate.


Inside the complex.







To go inside the temple building above, you take your shoes off and no photos are allowed.

Now we are approaching the Asakusa Shrine, a Shinto shrine set near the temple complex and coexisting in peace with the Buddhist temple.



Inside the Shinto shrine yard. On the left, behind the statue, is a water station where you purify yourself.


Approaching the shrine. No photos allowed closer up.


Still inside the Shinto shrine yard, notice two ricksha carts on the right.


Bell house with Toki-no-kane (Bell of Time).


The tour continues in Nihonbashi, an old commercial area with shops dating back 350 years. Here is entrance into the famous Nihombashi Mitsukoshi store and the majestic "Statue of Magokoro" - a wooden sculpture 11 meters tall.



Then it was time for lunch. Mark made a reservation at a very popular restaurant, Manten Sushi. Unlike our sushi restaurants, where you pick a few rolls to share, here it was a very elaborate meal, with the waitress bringing course after course, each item presented in an artistic way and Mark explaining what it is... I didn't count the courses and felt it would be obnoxious to take pictures of every single one, so here is just a couple of photos.




There was so much food, I thought I would not be able to eat again for at least 24 hours... We walked around some more... here is a photo of the monument marking Point 0, from where all the road distances in the country are measured. 


Finally, we took a subway and walked some more to get to the Menji Jingu Shrine. This is the entrance gate to the shrine complex. The shrine was established in 1920, to commemorate the virtue of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and so was the park. These tall trees were donated from all over the country to establish the park, then they kept growing for 100 years and now look like this.



From the gate to the shrine itself is quite a long way through the park. By the sides of the alley, you can see alcohol donations. It is usual to donate sake, but donating French wine to a shrine is less usual. Our guide told us the reason, but I forgot.



Finally, we enter the shrine yard. 



Because no photos are allowed close up, Mark took a photo of us with the shrine in the distance.

In the Shinto religion, ropes with tassels and thunderbolts mark sacred objects. These are "husband and wife" sacred trees. Which led Mark to take a photo of husband and wife in front of these trees. (We saw other couples taking photos there, too.)



The tour was over. By then, I was very tired, but this evening was our only chance to go to Andy's Shin Hinomoto, a hole-in-the-wall type of place that was very highly recommended by two members of our family who already visited Japan - so we had to go there!



Andy is quite a character. And the food is good, so even though I felt after lunch that I won't be able to eat anymore that day, I really enjoyed it. Alex had some scary-looking crayfish, and I discovered for myself maitake mushrooms. They are delicious! After that time, I ordered them every chance I got.


Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Japan, day 3: Nikko

Nikko is about 2 hours by train from Tokyo, and there is a complicated system with tickets, which Alex successfully figured out. But the early trains were sold out, so we had a little less time than we wanted. Crowds and a complete lack of signage further detracted from the experience. Still, we saw the magnificent Toshogu Shrine (and even climbed 207 steps to pay our respects to the first Tokugawa), and then the Rinno-ji Temple. Unfortunately, no photos allowed inside places of worship.

This is the Toshogu Shrine complex. It has a five-story pagoda and lots of magnificently decorated buildings.
















The elaborately decorated gate in the last few photos is called karamon gate.

And now we come to a different gate, leading to a separate part of the shrine complex. Above the gate, there is the "Sleeping Cat" (I knew there was a sleeping cat to look for, but as it usually happens, if you don't know what you are looking for, it is hard to find - I expected a statue, and it was a little medallion set into the top of the gate).


When you pass through the gate, on the other side there is another medallion in the same place, but it contains two sparrows. 


It all has some symbolic meaning, which I forgot. The important thing is, after the gate you come to 207 steps leading to the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years (1603–1867). This was the time of peace and prosperity, and Tokugawa Ieyasu is very highly regarded in Japan to this day. Incidentally, it was he who founded Edo (now Tokyo) and moved the center of power there, from Kyoto. 

Here are some of the steps, and once you climb them (and a lot more), you come to this little shrine, with the pagoda marking the burial spot. Somewhere on the Internet I saw it referred to as "the urn" holding his remains, but the sign nearby clearly states that the shogun is buried under the pagoda and his grave has never been opened since his death in 1617, while the pagoda has been replaced several times - it was first wood, then stone, and now a precious alloy of gold, silver, and copper, 5 m tall.




Nikko disappointed us by crowds and complete lack of signage. In hindsight, we should have hired a tour guide to go there. As it was, we never found the museum that was part of our paid ticket to Toshogu Shrine, had lunch at Meiji-no-Yakata restaurant that sounded enticing but ended up being so meh that I didn't even take any photos, and finally walked around the Rinno-ji Temple.






It was getting late and time to go home. We walked to the Shinkyō Bridge...


... and then further along the main street to the train station. On the way, my wonderful husband walked into a bakery and got me a very fancy chestnut pastry. (The day before, Mark explained to us that in Japan sweets were seasonal. And October, very fortunately for me, turned out to be the chestnut month.)