Japan, day 3: Nikko

Nikko is about 2 hours by train from Tokyo, and there is a complicated system with tickets, which Alex successfully figured out. But the early trains were sold out, so we had a little less time than we wanted. Crowds and a complete lack of signage further detracted from the experience. Still, we saw the magnificent Toshogu Shrine (and even climbed 207 steps to pay our respects to the first Tokugawa), and then the Rinno-ji Temple. Unfortunately, no photos allowed inside places of worship.

This is the Toshogu Shrine complex. It has a five-story pagoda and lots of magnificently decorated buildings.

The elaborately decorated gate in the last few photos is called karamon gate.

And now we come to a different gate, leading to a separate part of the shrine complex. Above the gate, there is the "Sleeping Cat" (I knew there was a sleeping cat to look for, but as it usually happens, if you don't know what you are looking for, it is hard to find - I expected a statue, and it was a little medallion set into the top of the gate).

When you pass through the gate, on the other side there is another medallion in the same place, but it contains two sparrows. 

It all has some symbolic meaning, which I forgot. The important thing is, after the gate you come to 207 steps leading to the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years (1603–1867). This was the time of peace and prosperity, and Tokugawa Ieyasu is very highly regarded in Japan to this day. Incidentally, it was he who founded Edo (now Tokyo) and moved the center of power there, from Kyoto. 

Here are some of the steps, and once you climb them (and a lot more), you come to this little shrine, with the pagoda marking the burial spot. Somewhere on the Internet I saw it referred to as "the urn" holding his remains, but the sign nearby clearly states that the shogun is buried under the pagoda and his grave has never been opened since his death in 1617, while the pagoda has been replaced several times - it was first wood, then stone, and now a precious alloy of gold, silver, and copper, 5 m tall.

Nikko disappointed us by crowds and complete lack of signage. In hindsight, we should have hired a tour guide to go there. As it was, we never found the museum that was part of our paid ticket to Toshogu Shrine, had lunch at Meiji-no-Yakata restaurant that sounded enticing but ended up being so meh that I didn't even take any photos, and finally walked around the Rinno-ji Temple.

It was getting late and time to go home. We walked to the Shinkyō Bridge...

... and then further along the main street to the train station. On the way, my wonderful husband walked into a bakery and got me a very fancy chestnut pastry. (The day before, Mark explained to us that in Japan sweets were seasonal. And October, very fortunately for me, turned out to be the chestnut month.)

> Day 4